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Eggnog

Do you like eggnog? Love it? Or hate it?

I have always loved eggnog. Always. As long as I can remember. We only had it in the house during the Christmas holiday, and it was always in the tall, skinny, quart-size carton, from the store, never homemade. I knew it must have been expensive and unique because it was dribbled into tiny cups and seldom served. When we had holiday guests, my mom would pour it into a cup and serve it to them with a shot of rum or brandy. As a seven or eight-year-old, I remember getting so upset that my mom was wasting our eggnog by putting liquor in it. I pouted.

Our milk was delivered to our house at least once a week. We had a lidded, insulated, metal box on our porch and the milkman would bring us glass bottles of milk and take the empties. If memory serves me right, the milk was delivered by Seidhoff Dairy and it looks like they are still doing business in Union, Missouri; although they joined Prairie Farms in the early 1980s. I think our grocery store eggnog probably had a Pevely or Prairie Farms logo on the carton.

Fast forward to Christmas Eve, 2001. I had taken a late evening, formal Christmas Eve dinner catering job and had prepared to leave immediately after dinner service. I had packed, my luggage in the car and was ready to drive to the airport for a red-eye to visit my future husband in Annapolis, Maryland. Little did I know that my repertoire and experiences of holiday eggnog were going to broaden and soon there would be a new tradition for “us”. One of my husband’s Christmas holiday traditions was attending a good friend’s home on the Eastern Shore for an elaborate gathering that included Steve’s famously delicious and strongly spirited homemade eggnog. His neighborhood was also known for a top-notch Christmas parade and Steve’s house (and yard) was the perfect place to watch. Great food, fun people, spirited eggnog, and a Christmas parade on the Chesapeake Bay. I was hooked.

Over the years as I became more involved in the local food scene and farmers markets I became a fan of local milk and actually searched out farmers with dairy herds to procure, farm fresh, Jersey and/or Guernsey milk. By now we had moved to Missouri and had opened a farmers market in far West St Louis County. My husband George and I were now on a quest to perfect our own, homemade eggnog using the freshest ingredients and create our own flavor profile and style. We contacted Steve to see if he would share his formula. He was more than willing. Although by the time we had asked for it, his formula had been tweaked so many times over the years, he wasn’t exactly sure of the most current recipe or ratios. But that was okay because I generally use recipes for inspiration and go from there. We had fresh whole fat, Jersey milk, fresh eggs, whole nutmeg, organic, evaporated cane syrup from Florida (sugar), homemade vanilla, ground cinnamon, a whisk, and a notebook for notetaking. We started the process, made tiny, practice batches, added a little of this and that and tasted, adjusted, and came up with the ratios and a recipe that we both loved. I am still not a fan of adding spirits, but once in a while, I waste my parsed-out portion and add a little rum or brandy, or bourbon.

As I set down to write this, I did an online search titled “eggnog” and I found some interesting tidbits of information regarding its history as well as the difference between holiday nog and eggnog. The names are based on the milk fat content of the product inside the carton. Eggnog will be richer and higher in milkfat at 6% with 2% for holiday nog. Our eggnog recipe is one that can be made and enjoyed immediately and will keep in the fridge for a couple of days. There is a popular aged eggnog formula where the ingredients are mixed together and can be sealed and stored in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks and Alton Brown says, probably up to a year. I haven’t made aged eggnog yet, but it’s in my plan; maybe this year.

Notes:

You don’t have to use farm-fresh, milk, but please use full-fat milk and add cream or at the very least, half and half

This recipe uses raw eggs. I don’t have a problem using farm-fresh, raw eggs, but I do practice some food safety guidelines nonetheless. Don’t use eggs that have a previously broken or cracked shell. Wash your eggs gently before cracking them. Break each egg into a small bowl or cup BEFORE pouring it into your large mixing bowls.

You may like your eggnog sweeter than we do or with more cinnamon or nutmeg, so please adjust it to your liking and make a note

Eggnog (perfected)

  • 6 fresh eggs, separated, put the yolks in a clean mixing bowl and whites in another
  • 3 cups full-fat fresh Jersey milk or the equivalent using whole milk, cream, half & half
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla
  • 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
  • pinch of ground cloves
  • pinch of salt

Beat egg yolks with sugar until frothy. Beat in one cup of milk at a time for a total of three cups. Stir in vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, and salt. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Gently whisk whites into the cream and egg mixture and then thoroughly blend to incorporate all ingredients. Taste and adjust the spices and sweetness if needed. Adding more cream is also an option. Store in a covered container and refrigerate. Whisk or stir before serving. Top with grated nutmeg if desired.

Optional – add an ounce of rum or brandy or bourbon to each glass before serving.

English Muffins

One of my favorite cookbook authors and culinary mentors is Marion Cunningham. I do not own one of her famous Fannie Farmer Cookbooks, but have most of her other books and have used them over and over. I tend to use cookbooks and recipes as inspiration and a guideline. I have learned that some techniques do require specific formulas and ratios to come out perfectly. Baking tends to be one of the culinary arts that one does need to stick with the formula while still adding bits of creativity and individuality here and there.

My husband loves English Muffins. They are part of his morning breakfast routine and have been for years. Although it does not take extraordinary effort to make homemade English Muffins, I do not make them as often as I would like to.

This recipe makes about a dozen and is adapted from Marion Cunningham’s “The Breakfast Book”.

1/2 cup warm water
1 pkg or heaping TBL of yeast
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 TBL sugar
1 cup warm milk
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (I prefer locally milled flour from Janie’s Mill)
3 TBL vegetable oil
1/2 cup cornmeal (Janie’s Mill)

Pour water into large mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast and stir. I add a sprinkle of sugar to feed the yeast and let it set to make sure the yeast is good and active (called proofing the yeast). Let stand for about 5 minutes, then stir in the rest of the sugar, salt, warm milk, two cups of flour and oil. Stir briskly with a spoon ( I prefer wooden) and mix well. Add the remaining flour and stir to blend smoothly. This dough is very soft. Oil or butter a large mixing bowl and turn the dough into that for the rise. Cover and let the dough rise until double in bulk (about 1 hour). You may also refrigerate the dough to make the next day.

Flour a work surface and your hands. Put the dough onto workspace and add a little flour if it is too sticky. Knead the dough only 3 or 4 times and pat it out to about 1/4”. I use an empty rinsed-out tuna can as the cutter. I think an egg-poaching ring might work well too. Oil the cutter and place the muffins at least 1″ apart on a tray that has been sprinkled with cornmeal.

Cover the muffins lightly and let rest for about 1/2 hour. Oil a griddle and heat to medium. Cook muffins for about 10 minutes on the first side, then turn carefully and cook for about another 5 minutes on the other. Remember that you will be slicing and toasting the muffins so they will only be lightly golden. Be sure they are cooked through and remove them from heat.

Slice, toast and enjoy!  (This makes me smile!)

One Amish Chicken

 I rarely buy meat from the grocery store anymore. Our freezer has local, farm-raised beef, lamb, chicken, pork, rabbit and wild duck. The chickens I purchase are whole and usually 3-4 lbs. I have not prepared boneless, skinless chicken breast for a really long time. The flavor of local, pastured, free-range chicken with bones and skin is far above and beyond any poultry one will find in a supermarket.

These days there are only two of us at home. With meals for two most common, I find many ways to be creative with the “cook once, eat twice (or three times)”  motto. My latest endeavor was one roasted chicken that was spread between three very different meals/events….

Meal One: I love roasted chicken and I love preparing it in different ways. I almost always enjoy sliding slivered cloves of fresh garlic under the breast and thigh skin….mmmm! The variations include what to put in the cavity, how to season the skin, marinating before roasting, what to roast it with and so on. This particular bird got the garlic under the skin, a quartered whole lemon in the cavity, along with a few pieces of fresh ginger root. (I have also put lemon under the skin of a chicken and that is really good as well.) A good olive oil, fresh lemon juice, kosher salt and fresh ground pepper were rubbed into the skin and fresh dried tarragon and parsley topped it all off. The chicken was roasted for close to 90 minutes in a pan with white wine, shallots, garlic and celery. I love a really crispy skin and very juicy tender meat and I am never disappointed with the farm fresh chickens. I enjoy dark meat and Mr. Sackett loves white, so there is always plenty for each of us to enjoy.

This particular bird was served with oven-roasted carrots, turnips, potatoes, onion and garlic with olive oil and herbs. It was also accompanied by brussel sprouts browned in olive oil and butter with a little shaving of fresh parmesan.

Preparation Two: Time for the Missouri Mycological Society (MOMS) Winter Luncheon and I needed to prepare something delicious. I was thinking ahead, but couldn’t come up with anything that really excited me. I had a busy weekend with family parties and social events and not a lot of time for anything difficult.

I had some puff pastry sheets in the freezer, lots of dried mushrooms, leftover roasted chicken, lots of different cheeses, shallots, garlic, wine, herbs…ahh haaa! I had something and it took less than an hour to prepare!

I soaked about two ounces of dried porcini mushrooms in red wine and warm water for about 30 minutes. I took some meat off the chicken and chopped it really fine. In a large skillet, I sauteéd shallots and garlic with olive oil, added the finely chopped mushrooms with some of the strained soaking liquid, stirred in the chicken, added fresh tarragon, parsley, thyme, a little smoked salt, kosher salt and fresh ground pepper. I let that mixture sit while I baked the two sheets of puff pastry on large cookie sheets lined with parchment paper.

While the pastry was baking and cooling a bit, I softened an 8oz block of cream cheese. (I almost used goat cheese, but opted for the cream cheese) With the softened cream cheese, I  beat in some whipping cream and added a bit of the herbs I used with the mushrooms and chicken.

I was running out of time and quickly spread the cheese on the barely-cooled puff pastry. It crushed the pastry a bit, but it was all covered eventually and didn’t show.  Next, I spread and sprinkled the chicken and porcini mixture on top of the herbed cheese, and pressed it into the cheese just a bit.  To serve, I cut the sheets into little squares with a pizza cutter, put them on a beautiful platter and placed them on the appetizer table with the other starters. I think I called it a porcini, chicken and cheese tart. I had no idea what else to name it. The dish was a hit!

Meal Three: This one is on the stove now and still pending what the finishing “WOW” ingredients will be.

Snow day and possible blizzard conditions and so, I prepared a few things last night, just in case! I could always heat soup or stew up with sterno in my fondue pot, couldn’t I? I put together a chili and a chowder. My concoctions are always different. I have not found a chili or soup recipe that cannot be “played with” and possibly perfected or tweaked.

I enjoy ground meat of some sort in my chili as well as kidney beans or a variety of beans (red, black, pinto, kidney). I also enjoy chopped tomato or a thicker pureéd tomato. Sometimes I add cocoa or peanut butter, oregano, and a tad of ground cloves. I always add a lot of cumin and I cannot remember the last time I used commercial chili powder or commercially prepared chili beans. Ok, so the chili is not part of the chicken…I better move on! The chili recipe will have to come later.

I was going to make a teeny bit of chicken noodle soup with the carcass and little meat I had left on the chicken. I put the carcass in a pot of water and turned it on to simmer. Then I decided I was in the mood for corn chowder, so why not make chicken corn chowder and mix it all together?

Sauté onion, garlic, celery, carrot and potato in olive oil and a little chicken broth then gradually add a little more broth, then add a couple of cups of fresh or fresh frozen corn and chopped chicken.  Fry two or three pieces of dry cured bacon (no nitrates please) or smoked ham, drain and chop into fine pieces…add to the pot. If you want the fat and the flavor then sauté the bacon with all the veggies at the start.

Gradually add more broth, cream or milk. If you want a thicker chowder, then make a roux from milk and flour and stir it into hot soup.

Now, here is where creativity and personal preference come into play. I added salt, pepper, a bay leaf and fresh thyme. It was okay but lacked the flavor I wanted. I let it set overnight and reheated it and am currently playing with it. I have added a few drops of habanero hot sauce, a little more salt, pepper and white pepper and it is still ok. I just soaked dried morel and chanterelle mushrooms in white wine, chopped them finely and stirred them in. I will wait a while and taste again….

So, there is my one roasted Amish Chicken, three ways!

And that makes me smile!

Incurable Epicureans

Tomorrow evening is my first Incurable Epicurean dinner. I am not sure how long the group has been together, but I am so happy to be able to join in. The group meets four times a year. Tomorrow’s menu is created around the kitchen of Marcella Hazan, to me, the Italian Julia Child.
The menu is as follows with the English names of the dishes:
MARCELLA  CUCINA

Tuna Tonnato
Fava Bean Crostini
Pickled zucchini
Tomato polenta squares, tapenade
Porcini crostini
Eggplant cheese balls

                            *******

Baked Fish with Leeks and potatoes
Bell pepper and goat cheese pasta
Risotto, white wine, rosemary, and sage
Cauliflower, tomato, green olive salad
Artichoke, fava, pea, and romaine salad
Fennel, radicchio, Belgian endive salad

                            *******

Ancona orange cake
Panna cotta with hazelnuts
Yogurt and sambuca cake
Fruit in prosecco
Raisin polenta cookies

My dish is in the dessert course; the Ancona Orange Cake. I have made two of them, as we have about 45 in the group. I had everything I needed except the blood oranges. I also picked up a little bottle of Orangecello. I have never had it and thought I would give it a try.

The Incurable Epicurean group is an offshoot of the Missouri Mycological Society folks. The meals that I have shared with this group over the last year have always been memorable. We always bring our own place settings which for my husband and me entails appetizer plates, bowls for soup, dinner plates, utensils, wine and water glasses, napkins and so forth. The tables always look so unique and beautiful because everyone has different china, and sometimes unique little tablecloths or runners. The tables are set and look so homey and yet so classy! The food that everyone brings to the table is always thoughtfully prepared, always homemade and most of the time grown or foraged by the person that brought it. I suspect tomorrow evening’s Incurable Epicurean dinner will be equally, if not more so, impressive and fun as the ones I have shared over the last year.

I don’t know what the dates or the themes of the rest of our dinners will be. I am looking forward to meeting new people, tasting new dishes and sharing a great time with this group throughout the year. I am especially excited about tomorrow as we celebrate Marcella’s Kitchen and how she has inspired us and shared her rich Italian culture and cuisine.